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panflaque y carlitos way

4/27/2015

18 Comments

 
Something we were excited to do on our adventures was to open new climbing routes. In Arenales, we scoped a beautiful formation and a few lines that were surprisingly not already established. What an opportunity!
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We spent a week climbing, cleaning and equipping two new routes near the Aguja Carlos Daniel, Panflaque and Carlitos Way, on a formation we dubbed Aguja Carlito. 

Each route offers a variety of climbing from cracks to face holds, and chimney/offwidth. 

Panflaque's namesake comes from its second pitch: an exciting left arching crack that is reminiscient of the pancake flake on the Nose of El Cap. 
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To gain the summit, there's an option to climb a well protected chimney. 
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Carlitos Way shares the same start with Panflaque and after pitch one, shoots off left with two more pitches of wide crack, offwidth and squeeze chimney. Each route shares a finish on an exciting summit.
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above photo courtesy of Rodrigo Muñoz Luconi
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It was fun, and rewarding, to clean and bolt the anchors and rap station. Our goal was to make the route accessible, so climbers can use a single 70m rope to get to the top and rappel down.
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It was a lot of work to open these new lines, but totally worth it. We were psyched to contriubute a few routes to this already amazing climbing area. If you find yourself in Arenales, let us know what you think!
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