Something we were excited to do on our adventures was to open new climbing routes. In Arenales, we scoped a beautiful formation and a few lines that were surprisingly not already established. What an opportunity!

We spent a week climbing, cleaning and equipping two new routes near the Aguja Carlos Daniel, Panflaque and Carlitos Way, on a formation we dubbed Aguja Carlito. 

Each route offers a variety of climbing from cracks to face holds, and chimney/offwidth. 

Panflaque's namesake comes from its second pitch: an exciting left arching crack that is reminiscient of the pancake flake on the Nose of El Cap. 

To gain the summit, there's an option to climb a well protected chimney. 

Carlitos Way shares the same start with Panflaque and after pitch one, shoots off left with two more pitches of wide crack, offwidth and squeeze chimney. Each route shares a finish on an exciting summit.

It was fun, and rewarding, to clean and bolt the anchors and rap station. Our goal was to make the route accessible, so climbers can use a single 70m rope to get to the top and rappel down.

It was a lot of work to open these new lines, but totally worth it. We were psyched to contriubute a few routes to this already amazing climbing area. If you find yourself in Arenales, let us know what you think!

There's a reason we spent three weeks in Cajón de los Arenales; many reasons really! 

The climbing here is fantastic, and we didn't scratch the surface. The approaches vary from long and steep gravel walks to meanders over boulders and several crosses of the river (great for hydration stops!) The granite featured some perfect lines and though we encountered some loose rocks, overall the climbing was clean and beautiful.

And, the views are amazing; from the bottom of the canyon, to the middle of the climb, to the summit block.

And, as with the climbing, these photos do not scratch the surface. 

We arrived in Tunuyan in the late afternoon the first week of March, really excited about this next part of our trip. We were to head into the Cajón de los Arenales: a beautiful valley carved by glaciers, where a river runs through the middle but is cut by a huge moraine. Granite walls and spires rise up on either side of the valley inspiring curiosity of all its features, canals and gullies.

After stocking up on food and necessities in Tunuyan (and having one of the best 5 course meals - for roughly US$30 each!) we made our way into the valley. Having Scarleta as our basecamp is great, a luxury even; we found a perfect spot to park (down by the river, of course).
There is a refugio about a 15 minute walk up from the trailhead. It’s a pretty rough structure, but for many a great place to sleep and certainly for sharing stories with other climbers and trekkers who visit the valley. We met several great folks who called this place home for their stay. And, there’s even a resident cat who keeps the place mice free!  

Our first day of climbing was spent at Aguja Carlos Daniel, described in our guidebook as “a spot in Los Arenales saved for lovers of jamming in all its forms.” The guidebook, which is somewhat lost in translation, had this absolutely right. It’s on and near this formation that we would spend a lot of our time.
Our first few days in Arenales, we met up with Nacho and his partner Majo who run Arenales Climbing, a guiding service in the canyon, and their friend Rodrigo. We spent a great afternoon climbing the Deja ya de Joder route up Carlos Daniel with them!

Nacho and Majo have been climbing in Arenales for many years and know this place in an out and have opened many new routes. Nacho is creating the new guidebook which will be available later this year; which is great because the current guidebook, while it served us pretty well, refers to climbing ropes as strings.

Not surprisingly, Nacho, Majo and Rodrigo are incredibly friendly, share freely, talk openly, and are some of the most positive, excited people we’ve met. They have incredible love and respect for this canyon and we are grateful to have their friendship and knowledge of this beautiful place.

The weather in Arenales mostly continued with our streak of sunshine and warm days but clouds, cold, and several days of rain did halt some of our climbing. 

Forced rest days are great though when accompanied with delicious asados, great wine, and new friends. And an indoor climbing wall! 

Though one rain delay kept us out of the valley for three days straight, we kept coming back. We weren’t ready to leave such a beautiful, accessible place! There's so much climbing to be had.....