Aventuras en Chile
  • Blog
  • About
  • Contact

rapa nui

5/15/2016

1 Comment

 
Picture
Rapa Nui, also known as Easter Island, is one of the most remote yet populated island in the world - the closest continent (Chile) is located 2,182 miles away and it is 1,289 miles away from the Pitcairn Islands, the closest populated land. It's small: 163.6 km²; the widest point is a little over 7.5 miles and longest is just over 15 miles. And though it's small, it is extraordinary in its history.

During our week-long visit, we walked along the rugged coastline past historical sites, through lava tubes and past moais; we hiked the volcanoes that formed the island; ate local seafood; explored and learned about the incredible history with a local guide; danced in the sideways rain; swam in the "delicious" waters the color of sea glass; were up at dawn to watch the stars fade to daylight and at dusk to see the sunset fade to a starry sky. 

We ate the famous tuna empanada and drank local brewed beer, listened and danced to traditional music, met locals who happily offered us rides and also told the history of the island and its present state.

To say it was the trip of a lifetime may be cliche, but perhaps true. I am not sure we would have found ourselves here if not in the southern hemisphere, or traveling to one of the two places that offers flights (which, are only once a day). It was a memorable experience indeed.
Picture
Rano Kau, an extinct volcano at the southern end of the island.
Picture
The view from our cabana.
Picture
​Ahu Tahai
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Exploring a lava tube that opened out to the ocean.
Picture
This, and the following few photos taken from the Rano Raraku​ quarry, where the moai were carved.
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Ahu Tongariki
Picture
Anakena Beach and Ahu Nau Nau
Picture
Ahu Nau Nau
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
1 Comment

asados y estrellas

3/18/2016

0 Comments

 
 The vernal equinox is approaching and the shift is evident. The air is more "fresh" and we've seen the leaves start yellowing and falling. But, we're still holding on to the summer.

Which, has been quite full! Family and friends have visited. We've spent almost every weekend in the mountains or in a coastal town, visiting new places and also spending time in places we've come to love. We know exactly how traffic will be on a Friday afternoon and try to time our exit accordingly. I'm on auto-pilot at the grocery store and while it may be boring to not deviate from our shopping list, we've got a pretty solid meal plan.

What's standard: an asado. The Chilean asado - BBQ - is a summer ritual here. It varies in style depending on your location, rural or urban, but hardly ever strays from the amount of meat consumed. Ours usually includes Choripan (chorizo + pan - which is Spanish for bread), ribs and veggies. Sometimes our evening asados last a few hours and while we sit back in our camp chairs with our beer or glass of wine and warm ourselves by the slow burn of coals, the stars start to come out.

As a kid I remember being excited seeing the first star shine, marking that transition from day to night. This is one thing I have loved about our summer weekend getaways. Watching the stars - which are incredibly visible away from the city lights - shift across the ridge lines. The photos below remind me of one fantastic summer, and make me excited for even more nights around the fire and under the stars. 
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
0 Comments

muy feliz cumpleaños

12/12/2015

17 Comments

 
Birthdays are a milestone to be celebrated. It's a great time to reflect on the year that's passed, and welcome what's to come. To welcome Kirk to his mid-thirties, we headed to the mountains in the octava region of Chile. 

San Fabián, located in the Bío Bío Region, sits approximately 168 km south and east of Talca. The majority of the community resides north of the Rio Ñuble - a beautiful, turquoise river with a hydro electric project slated for construction. ​
Picture
After a delicious roadside egg sandwich breakfast, we met up with a few guys Kirk had met and climbed with a while back. We found a secure parking spot for Scarleta, loaded up our 50+ pound packs and started what would become a nearly 7-hour sufferfest uphill to one of the most rugged and beautiful places we've spent while still being relatively close to a town. 
Picture
Our destination was the saddle just left of highest point on the right side.
Picture
Picture
Our destination was Cerro Malalcura, also called the "stone fence," rising 2100 meters above sea level. The trail we followed started as a dirt road (looking as if traveled mostly by locals on horseback and 4x4's) for the first several miles, transitioned to trail marked relatively well with cairns, and finished with a bushwack through thick trees and bushes before we arrived on top of a saddle that opened up to the rest of cordillera. Mountains, rivers, rock, snow as far as the eye could see. It was totally worth it.
Picture
Picture
We opted for a campspot amongst the orange and white colored granite (very reminiscent of Vedawoo and Joshua Tree). With no tent, we set up our sleeping bags between rocks leaving an open sky to enjoy the dusk and dawn, and watch the constellations shift across the sky as we went to sleep. 
Picture
We shared the space with the condors, tarantula-esque spiders and other crazy bugs, lizards and beautiful flora. 
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
The climbing was spectacular and many of the walls have incredible potential for new routes. We spent two days in one section opening a few new lines, following obvious features with a variety of climbing styles to the rocky summit. We found perfect hand jams, wide cracks to layback and even wider ones to chimney. 
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Muy feliz cumpleaños, Kirk. May this next year bring joy, mountain air and granite rocks to climb, and even more aventura.
17 Comments

Viviente

10/19/2015

2 Comments

 
This post is for those out there curious about the everyday life we’ve been settling into since we found an apartment and garage spot for Scarletta. Maybe not as glamorous, our weeks are none the less interesting and an every-day adventure.
Picture
Kirk has been working for a small (10 people total), Chilean consulting firm where he and his co-workers make up an international team with the likes of people from Chile, Canada, Spain, and the US. He’s been able to work on several interesting projects in Santiago, San Pedro (in the north), Curico (south of Santiago), and several other regions outside of the metropolitan area. Kirk has immensely improved his Spanish as a result; his business is largely conducted in Spanish. He sounds (almost) like a Chilean which is quite notable seeing as the consensus is that Chile has one of the hardest to understand/learn dialects of Spanish. He’s impressive in his ability to communicate effectively with cab drivers, new friends, potential new clients that we happen to meet in line for a burger. It’s inspiring.

A big priority of mine was to learn Spanish and though I committed time and money to this end, my results are a bit sub-par. I’ve managed to speak in somewhat full sentences; I’ve even been able to give several people directions to the closest metro stop, as well as successfully communicated with our doorman about needing the key to the laundry room. I understand a bit more than I did a few months ago, but my ability to speak and comprehend is still far from where I hoped after 7 months. If there’s one thing I’ve learned here, it’s patience.

Patience became like a friend of mine, visiting often, when it came to my job search. In conversations past, I recall thinking a good plan was to teach English. After some careful and intentional thought, I decided it wasn’t for me. Though it would have provided a really interesting and challenging opportunity, I was hoping for something different. After months of job searching in my PJ’s drinking powdered coffee, I found two different companies that are giving me a reason to motivate in the morning.

Where I spend the majority of my weekdays is at a co-working space called Urban Station near the Plaza Italia. More modernly known as Plaza Baquedano, this plaza is an important historical landmark in Santiago and a convergence point for many celebrations, and riots.
Picture
Urban Station attracts community-minded and eager entrepreneurs, and houses current generations and alumnae of Start-Up Chile: one of the biggest and most diverse start-up communities. With financial backing from international companies as well as support from the Chilean government, start-ups that come through the program are awarded with not only capital, but a network from which to learn, grow and cultivate their entrepreneurial dreams. Another plus is that the co-working staff often put out media-lunas (basically croissants coated in sugar) and other treats. Yum.

​The company I work with truly displays the diversity that Start-up Chile companies are known for. On our team are people from Germany, Venezuela, Uraguay, Argentina, Chile and the US. Though our working language is English, I’m surrounded daily by conversations in German as well as several accents of Spanish. We are doing interesting work in the “digital world;” currently most of the work is on the ground in Germany. 
Other days, I get to play “gringa guia” and share some of the places that I’ve come to love in/near Santiago with travelers. One of the places that I’ve spent a lot of time is Yerba Loca, a nature preserve east of Santiago in the Andes. I’ve also been able to get in the saddle, a place I’ve missed, and lead horse-back riding tours in the foothills just north of the city. ​
Picture
Picture
Picture
My commitment to keeping up with writing and photography inspired me to volunteer for an English-language online magazine, Revista Revolver. Each week, Revolver puts out a weekend guide with events, shows, fiestas and other cool happening in and around Santiago; so in addition to writing, editing and submitting photos, it’s been a good way to know what’s going on in the city. Plus, sometimes at our weekly meetings (fueled by cheap Chilean beer) we play Cards Against Humanity.
Picture
A few weeks ago, I was walking down the street and saw a gal from my Spanish class who I hadn’t seen since June. In a city of 6 million (mas o menos), faces are becoming familiar. It was the moment when I really felt this is where I live.

Ready to visit and check out this fine city (and beyond) for yourself? Casa de los Gringos is starting to fill it's summer occupancy, so let us know soon if you'd like to book your stay. 
2 Comments

esquiamos

8/22/2015

1 Comment

 
The cordillera has been getting a bit of snow in the past few weeks making their presence striking against the cityskape of Santiago. We were psyched that we made the decision to bring our skis back with us from our last trip to the US.

We hit the road late last Saturday evening towards the Cajon del Maipo and parked Scarleta where the road ends in a high pile of snow. We woke to a bluebird day!

Despite the fact we walked about 2k (in our ski boots) before even putting on our skis, it was fantastic to be surrounded by the Andes - and all that snow!

We got some turns in, basked in the sun, and logged several kilometers of skinning. Our afternoon finished with some "jugo natural" and a beautiful sunset. 
1 Comment

rica-rica es rica, rica!

7/29/2015

0 Comments

 
It's not just the landscape that has intrigued us here in Chile, we've also enjoyed learning about and immersing ourselves into the flavors and food of this country. 

When visiting the north, Kirk mentioned a plant he found that grows wild and rampant along the road: rica-rica. Roughly translating to delicious-delicious, this intensely aromatic plant boasts medicinal qualities that help cure stomach ails and adds great flavor to both savory and sweet delicacies. The stalks have also been used in yerba mate. And, in some places, the leaves are even used in Chile's signature drink Pisco Sour! The flavor and smell is similar to the herb sage.

As the sun was about to set on San Pedro de Atacama, we pulled off on the side of a road to a large swath of rica-rica bushes and filled a grocery bag to the brim with this delicious smelling herb.
Picture
So far, I've added it to soups and sauces as well as baked it into bread. The results definitely show how this herb lives up to its yummy-yummy moniker. 
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Rica-rica, best enjoyed with friends!
Picture
0 Comments

Al norte

6/26/2015

4 Comments

 
For a week, (well, for Kirk three weeks) we explored the Atacama desert in the north of Chile. Kirk had work in the Salar de Atacama near the town of San Pedro. While Kirk drilled wells and met with some potential clients, I slowly made the 1500+ km journey up the coast with Scarleta.
Picture
The drive wound me along spectacular coastline and through some quaint towns, and I also witnessed the "flowering desert" which is a climatic phenomenon that normally occurs only in years with high rainfall, and usually in September through November. Earlier this year, this region of Chile I drove through experienced massive flooding, and despite the beauty of these fields of flowers, I also saw some unfortunate destruction.
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
We met up in the town of Calama (one of the driest cities in the world!) which is considered the “gateway to the geological and archaeological wonders of Chile’s high central desert,” a distinction that certainly rang true as we set off on our adventure. One of first areas we checked out was along the Rio Loa (the longest river in Chile). The petroglyphs in this region were amazing!
Picture
Picture
Picture
Next stop was the town of Caspana which sits at 3,264 meters above sea level. We were excited to check out some climbing potential and though we did find some, what was equally - if not more - impressive were the terraced farming systems (of Incan origin) and the dwellings and numerous petroglyphs in the canyon along the Rio Caspana.
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Continuing along the road, we felt the affects of the altitude as we puttered over a 4000+ meter pass towards the Geysers del Tatio. Among the highest geyser fields in the world, these sit at an elevation of 4,320 meters.
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Next up, we stopped in San Pedro de Atacama, a famous tourist town just north of the Salar de Atacama, Chile’s largest salar. We drove out to one of the lagoons, the Chaxa lagoon, right at sunset and caught perfect light to watch the flamingos and other birds feeding with a backdrop of 5,000+ meter snow covered volcanoes.
Picture
Picture
Picture
From here we drove a little farther south through the town of Socaire to check out a new climbing area. We found a beautiful and quiet canyon and enjoyed some of the established routes, and even opened a new route of our own. On our last morning there, we were met with clouds and hail (which made for a beautiful morning).
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
We both share a love of the desert and we were really glad to have been able to check out this region of Chile.
4 Comments

exploring outside the city

5/30/2015

2 Comments

 
We've spent some time checking out what lies just outside the city of Santiago in the canyons and into the mountains. What we've found are beautiful mountain landscapes, new friends, great beer!, and infinite opportunities for exploration.
Picture
A few weeks ago, we set out to find some climbing close to the city. What we discovered is a beautiful canyon about 25 minutes outside Santiago called El Arrayán. 

Winding up the streets lined with mutant-sized aloe-like plants, the street went from paved to dirt. We parked Scarleta and headed on foot deeper into the canyon, bypassing the local horses and several friendly dogs. Flowering cactus scattered the hillside and we caught the last bits of fall here with the leaves yellowing and falling to the ground.
Picture
El Arrayán features volconic rock with dozens of routes graded from 5.8-5.13, close together and well bolted. It almost felt like an outdoor climbing gym!  
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
We also spent a few weekends checking out areas in the Cajón del Maipo. This canyon is about a 45 minute drive south east of Santiago and, if the road continued all the way through, you'd find yourself in Cajón de Arenales where we were earlier this year.
Picture
 Many folks travel here to take advantage of the hiking, horseback riding, hot springing and climbing. There are several areas for climbing - big wall, trad, sport - you name it! And, it's incredibly beautiful.
Picture
We spent a weekend camping (down by the river) and climbing at a mixed trad and sport area called Las Maloses. Though it got cold and rained a lot of one of the nights, it made for a beautiful morning waking up to snow dusted peaks.
Picture
Picture
Picture
We spent another weekend in the Cajón del Maipo with our friends from Tunuyán and Tupungato, Argentina at their friend's place near the town of El Manzano. We were incredibly excited to check out some different climbing areas and also discover the best beer we've found in Chile by far! Their friend is owner and head brewer of Cerveza Palestra. He makes a hell of an IPA and another delicious beer we tried, Puemo Ale, which includes a local ingredient that he's used - and patented - for this beer. We'll be heading back to visit for the climbing and the muy ricas cervezas!
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
2 Comments

van dwelling to apartment life

5/7/2015

3 Comments

 
Our scenary has changed a bit since trading in our van dwelling lifestyle for apartment living. Our doors don't open directly to the riverside or rocky ground; however, we still have mountain views and beautiful sunsets! They just happen to be from the 19th floor patio of our apartment in Santiago.
Picture
We're begining to settle in to our digs in the bustling neighborhood of Las Condes which is east of Santiago's city center. Several factors were in play when we chose our apartment but location was probably the biggest. Though we're off a main road heading in and out of the city, this was a strategic move so that we could easily get out of town! The noise of traffic - constant horn honking, bass bumping, car alarms going off and tires screeching -  is our background noise nearly any hour of the day. Quite the change from what both of us are used to!

We're about a quarter mile from a metro station and we purchased bikes for super easy commuting to work and Spanish school so we really only utilize the car on weekends (so far). Oh, and a climbing gym is conveniently located around the corner. 

Here's a look inside:
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
We obviously had to have a room dedicated to our gear!
Picture
Next up is finding the best of the five sushi restaurants within close proximity to our place, the cheapest price on fruits and veggies between the three markets within walking distance, and which out-of-town climbing destination takes the least amount of time to get to door-to-door. And, we're looking forward to exploring what this city is all about - from music to food to other interesting things that make this city the center of Chile's largest conurbation.

As you can see, we've got plenty of space for visitors (guest bedroom pictured above)! Let us know when you want to make your reservation. Breakfast and (instant) coffee included with your stay.
3 Comments

panflaque y carlitos way

4/27/2015

18 Comments

 
Something we were excited to do on our adventures was to open new climbing routes. In Arenales, we scoped a beautiful formation and a few lines that were surprisingly not already established. What an opportunity!
Picture
We spent a week climbing, cleaning and equipping two new routes near the Aguja Carlos Daniel, Panflaque and Carlitos Way, on a formation we dubbed Aguja Carlito. 

Each route offers a variety of climbing from cracks to face holds, and chimney/offwidth. 

Panflaque's namesake comes from its second pitch: an exciting left arching crack that is reminiscient of the pancake flake on the Nose of El Cap. 
Picture
Picture
Picture
To gain the summit, there's an option to climb a well protected chimney. 
Picture
Carlitos Way shares the same start with Panflaque and after pitch one, shoots off left with two more pitches of wide crack, offwidth and squeeze chimney. Each route shares a finish on an exciting summit.
Picture
Picture
above photo courtesy of Rodrigo Muñoz Luconi
Picture
It was fun, and rewarding, to clean and bolt the anchors and rap station. Our goal was to make the route accessible, so climbers can use a single 70m rope to get to the top and rappel down.
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
It was a lot of work to open these new lines, but totally worth it. We were psyched to contriubute a few routes to this already amazing climbing area. If you find yourself in Arenales, let us know what you think!
Picture
Picture
Picture
18 Comments
<<Previous

    Archives

    May 2016
    March 2016
    December 2015
    October 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015

Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.